A free sock pattern by Judy Becker

Note: This pattern was updated on 05/05/2007
Errata in previous version: Row 1 of the heel turn should be as follows (change in bold)
Row 1:  P1, K19, PM, M1R, K16, M1L, PM, turn (there will be 18 stitches between the markers – 16 original + 2 increases — 20 stitches to the right of the first marker and 20 unworked stitches to the left of the second marker)

The color and pattern of these socks reminded me of the upper Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, where I spent many happy childhood days roaming the woods.

The sock was designed to be knit from the toe-up using two circular needles. (Try knitting both at once!) The pattern could be adapted easily to DPNs by dividing the stitches into four equal portions.

The stitch pattern is a modified form of a 16-row/8-stitch pattern that is usually knit with YO increases to create a more open, lacy look. Knit with closed increases as on these socks, the pattern forms a faux-cable that looks complex but is actually quite straight forward to knit.

Snake River Socks were inspired by Sockbug’s top-down River Rapid Socks pattern.

Instructions are for women’s size medium. Since the stitch pattern is essentially a rib, it is quite stretchy and will accommodate most widths. Pointers for increasing the length and width are given below. Knitting with different yarn and/or needles to adjust the gauge is another possibility.

To increase foot length: Knit several straight K-all rounds after completing the toe and before starting the stitch pattern.

To increase width: Add extra purl stitches between the pattern repeats on the instep. Do not add extra stitches to the sole. After completing the heel, increase the number of purl stitches between the pattern repeats on the leg.

SIZE

• Women’s medium

MATERIALS

• Koigu KPPPM [160m / 50g, 100% Merino wool]; color: P521 (light green with dark green and orange speckles); 2 skeins
• 2 sets US #1 (2.5mm) circular needles, or size to give gauge
• Extra DPN or cable needle or stitch holder
• Stitch markers

GAUGE

• 8 sts / 12 rows = 1” in stockinette stitch

INCREASING

• M1L: Insert left needle into left loop of stitch two rows below last completed stitch. Knit this stitch through the front loop.
• M1R: Insert right needle into right loop of stitch just below the next stitch. Place it on to the left needle and knit it through the back loop.

ABBREVIATIONS

• Circ – circular needle
• M1L – Left-leaning increase. Use the one above or any other increase of your choosing.
• M1R – Right-leaning increase. Use the one above or any other increase of your choosing.
• K2Tog – Knit two stitches together
• P2Tog – Purl two stitches together
• SSK – Slip the next two stitches to the right needle as if to knit. Place the left needle through the front loops of the two slipped stitches and knit them together.
• Tbl – Knit stitch through back loop
• PM – Place Marker
• RM – Remove Marker
• WYIB – With yarn held in the back
• WYIF – With yarn held in the front
• AI2K – As if to knit
• AI2P – As if to purl

FAUX-CABLE STITCH PATTERN:

Rnd1: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd2: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd3: P1, M1R, K2, SSK, K2, P1, repeat
Rnd4: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd5: P1, K1, M1R, K2, SSK, K1, P1, repeat
Rnd6: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd7: P1, K2, M1R, K2, SSK, P1, repeat
Rnd8: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd9: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd10: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd11: P1, K2, K2Tog, K2, M1L, P1, repeat
Rnd12: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd13: P1, K1, K2Tog, K2, M1L, K1, P1, repeat
Rnd14: P1, K6, P1, repeat
Rnd15: P1, K2Tog, K2, M1L, K2, P1, repeat
Rnd16: P1, K6, P1, repeat

DIRECTIONS

Toe

Using Magic Cast-On, cast on 20 stitches total (10 on each needle).

Rnd 1:  K to end of round
Rnd 2:  Circ 1 — * K2, M1L, K to within 2 stitches of end of needle 1, M1R, K2.
            Circ 2 — Repeat from *.

Repeat Rnd1 and Rnd 2 until there are 64 stitches total – 32 on each needle.

Foot

All rounds:  Circ 1 — work next row from Faux-Cable stitch pattern
                   Circ 2 — P1, K until 1 stitch remains on left needle, P1

Repeat this round until the Faux-Cable stitch pattern has been repeated 3 times.

Work 9 more rounds, ending on row 9 of the Faux-Cable stitch pattern.

Gusset

Rnd 1:  Circ 1 — work next row from Faux-Cable stitch pattern
            Circ 2 — P1, M1L, K until one stitch remains on left needle, M1R, P1

Rnd 2:  Circ 1 — work next row from Faux-Cable stitch pattern
            Circ 2 — P1, K until one stitch remains on left needle, P1

Repeat these two rounds 11 more times – (56 stitches on Circ 2) – ending on row 1 of Faux-Cable stitch pattern

Last Rnd:  Circ 1 — work row 2 of Faux-Cable stitch pattern
            Circ 2 — Work heel turn and heel flap

Heel Turn

Note: If knitting two socks together, complete the turn and heel flap of one sock before starting the turn and heel flap of the second sock.

Row 1:  P1, K19, PM, M1R, K16, M1L, PM, turn (there will be 18 stitches between the markers – 16 original + 2 increases — 20 stitches to the right of the first marker and 20 unworked stitches to the left of the second marker)

Row 2:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P15, turn

Row 3:  M1R, K14, M1L, turn (20 stitches between markers)

Row 4:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P13, turn

Row 5:  M1R, K12, M1L, turn (22 stitches between markers)

Row 6:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P11, turn

Row 7:  M1R, K10, M1L, turn (24 stitches between markers)

Row 8:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P9, turn

Row 9:  M1R, K8, M1L, Turn (26 stitches between markers)

Row 10: Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P7, turn

Row 11: M1R, K6, M1L, Turn (28 stitches between markers)

Row 12: Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P5, turn

Row 13: M1R, K4, M1L, (30 stitches between markers), do not turn, K across increases from previous rows to within 4 stitches of marker, P3, WYIB Sl 1 st AI2P, RM, replace slipped stitch on left needle, P2Tog, turn

Row 14: Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P to within 4 stitches of marker, including across increases from previous rows, K3, Sl 1 st AITK, RM, SL 1 st AITK, place tip of left needle through front loops of two slipped stitches and knit them together

Heel Flap

Row 1:  Sl 1 st WYIB AI2K, K3, *Sl 2 st, K2, repeat from * 4 times, Sl 2 st, P3, P2tog, turn

Row 2:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P25, K3, K2Tog, turn

Repeat these two rows 17 more times, melding one gusset stitch into the heel flap on each row. When finished, there will be 2 unworked stitches to the right of the right of the heel flap and 2 unworked stitches to the left of the heel flap.

Last Row:  Sl 1 st WYIB AI2K, K5, * P2, K6, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K3, P2, P2tog, p1, do not turn.

Go back to knitting in the round.

Ankle

Rnd 1:  Circ 1 — work row 3 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern
           Circ 2 — P1, move next st to cable needle or spare DPN, P1, replace held st on left needle, P2Tog, P1, K3, * P2, M1R, K2, SSK, K2, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K3, P4

Rnd 2:  Circ 1 — work row 4 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern
           Circ 2 — P3, K4, * P2, K6, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K4, P3

Rnd 3:  Circ 1 — work row 5 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern
           Circ 2 — P2, K5, * P2, K1, M1R, K2, SSK, K1, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K5, P2

Rnd 4:  Circ 1 — work row 6 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern
           Circ 2 — P1, K6, * P2, K6, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K6, P1

Rnd 5:  Circ 1 — work row 7 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern
           Circ 2 — P1, K6, * P2, K2, M1R, K2, SSK, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K6, P1

Rnd 6:  Work next row of Faux-Cable stitch pattern across both needles.

Repeat Rnd 6 until all rows of Faux-Cable stitch pattern have been worked a total of three more times, ending with row 16.

Cuff

Rnd 1,2:    P1, * K2, P2, repeat from *, end P1

Rnd 3,4,5:  * P1, K3, repeat from * around

Rnd 6,7,8:  * K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, repeat from * around

Rnd 9:       * K1, P1, repeat from * around

Continue in K1, P1 ribbing for approximately 1”.

Finishing

Bind off loosely using stretchy bind-off technique (the pictured socks were bound off using a Kitchener bind-off).

Break yarn.
Weave in ends.

Enjoy your socks!